Sunday

National Museum of Korea - Seoul, South Korea

Once in Seoul, if you want to see another museum after the Leeum, you should go to the National Museum of Korea. You will experience a crash-course in Korean history and art, just strolling along the three floors of the Museum, manageable in a couple of hours. And it is free!

Outside: The building in granite, steel, and glass, reinterprets the traditional architectural spirit of Korea in a contemporary style. There is an open plaza between the two buildings which symbolizes maru (wooden floor), a unique architectural space of Korea. There is a pond in the center of the building site, which, with the backdrop of the Korean mountains, creates the sense of harmony and balance as Yin and Yang. Inside: You should start with Paleolithic (who knew there were dolmen in Korea as well!). The Silla dynasty era is the most impressive, with its golden crowns and belts. You can walk through the long section on calligraphy. Koreans invented metal mobile print almost 100 years before Guttenberg printed his famous bible in 1455. The section on porcelain is beautiful. Don't miss the green porcelain vases (celadon), shaped like reversed anphoras. Asian silk screens are also featured prominently. My favorites are the Japanese screens (take a look at the beautiful 14th century plum blossom in ink strokes and light colors). There are also rooms with Asian art, although if you have seen the Metropolitan Museum in NY, you have already seen more. (Last visit 06/2008)

Leeum Samsung Museum of Art - Seoul, South Korea

Leeum Samsung is a beautiful museum to visit. Composed by three radically different buildings, it displays a superb collection of Korean traditional art and serious modern and contemporary art. If you have only one day in Seoul, this is the museum to visit.

Outside: The first building looks like a brick castle, by the Swiss architect Mario Botta. If the outside does not capture your attention, wait to see the inside white staircase, shaped like a funnel, with large windows at the top and smaller at the bottom. Superb!
The second building by the French architect Jean Nouvel is in black stones (wrapped in metal cages), wood and metal with large windows. Excellent!
The third building is by the Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas, in glass and steel. Inside, a spaceship-shaped building within the main building is a brilliant surprise.

Inside: Botta's building displays a beautiful collection of Korean traditional art, collected by the late Samsung chairman. I loved the huge 10th century bronze pagoda, the jade vases, and a minimalist 1915 silk screen by An Jung-sik representing a village view with mountains.
In the second building there is a good collection of modern and contemporary art. There are few Korean paintings from the 1930s, clearly inspired by Monet and Cezanne. There are 3 Rothkos, one cut canvas by Fontana, and Sketches of the Gates by Christo (here called an environmental artist!). Some don't consider Damien Hirst an artist. Whatever he is, his "Dance of Death," a window cabinet with thousands of colored pills is phenomenal! The painting Waterdrops by Korean Kim Tschang-yeul is also eye-catching and inspirational.
The third building is for temporary exhibitions. When I was there, I saw a nonsense exhibit on the concept of a vacuum. (Last visit 06/2008)

Tate Britain - London, UK

In case you wonder whether it is still worth visiting the Tate Britain (the old Tate Gallery) after the opening of the new Tate Modern, the answer is yes! Keep an eye on the exhibitions, because there is always something interesting.

Outside: The building was opened in 1897, by the Thames on Millbank, at the time an out of the way area of central London. The site had previously been occupied by a large prison. The building was the dream of the sugar magnate and art collector Henry Tate, who paid for the building and endowed it with his own collection of British art.

Inside: The layout is like that of the old museums, with big entrance hall and a large staircase. If you like the grandiose and mythological landscapes by Joseph M.W. Turner, this is the place for you. There is also an impressive collection of British royal portraits. The section of British contemporary art can easily go unseen. When I visited, there was the highly interesting exhibition "The Lure of the East." I knew how politically charged such an exhibition can be, after all has been said on orientalism. Personally, I didn't see anything detracting local cultures in these paintings. Of course, they are sometimes unrealistically exotic, and always reflect Western perspectives. But most emerged from the very real fascination with a newly discovered world and culture, like James Sant's "Captain Colin Mackenzie," who, after serving in captivity in what is now Afghanistan, asked to be portrayed in local Afghan costumes. John Frederick Lewis's paintings of Cairo's bazaar (in which he often portraits himself in local costumes) are fresh and exotic in his way. Thomas Seddon's landscapes of the land around Jerusalem are magnificent. If you approach this art with an open mind, the exhibition is educational and fascinating. (Last visit 07/2008)

Kunstmuseum - Vaduz, Liechtenstein

Yes, Liechtenstein is just larger than Manhattan, but with its magnificent Alpine views it is definitely worth a visit. And, if you are making an effort to come this way, you should visit the Kunstmuseum. Unfortunately, the original Liechtenstein Prince's collection of old masters has been relocated in Vienna. But temporary exhibitions can be delightful.
Outside: Built by the Swiss architects Meinrad Morger and Heinrich Degelo, along with Christian Kerez, the building is a "black box" of concrete and black basalt stone. The smooth surface of the facade invites touching and reflects the surroundings. A row of white windows is open at the bottom of the black cube. Walk by at night because the effect is very coo
l. A big Botero woman lays naked on one side of the building.
Inside: White and clear, as black and dark as the outside. When I visited, there was a good exhibition of 17th century South Italian landscapes by Dutch painters. The perm
anent collection includes modern and contemporary pieces, mainly sculptures and installations from abstract and
minimal art, conceptual art and Arte Povera.
Depending on the number of exhibits, this museum is a pleasant two-hour break from hikes or skiing. (Last visit 08/2008)