Leeum Samsung is a beautiful museum to visit. Composed by three radically different buildings, it displays a superb collection of Korean traditional art and serious modern and contemporary art. If you have only one day in Seoul, this is the museum to visit.
Outside: The first building looks like a brick castle, by the Swiss architect Mario Botta. If the outside does not capture your attention, wait to see the inside white staircase, shaped like a funnel, with large windows at the top and smaller at the bottom. Superb!
The second building by the French architect Jean Nouvel is in black stones (wrapped in metal cages), wood and metal with large windows. Excellent!
The third building is by the Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas, in glass and steel. Inside, a spaceship-shaped building within the main building is a brilliant surprise.
Inside: Botta's building displays a beautiful collection of Korean traditional art, collected by the late Samsung chairman. I loved the huge 10th century bronze pagoda, the jade vases, and a minimalist 1915 silk screen by An Jung-sik representing a village view with mountains.
In the second building there is a good collection of modern and contemporary art. There are few Korean paintings from the 1930s, clearly inspired by Monet and Cezanne. There are 3 Rothkos, one cut canvas by Fontana, and Sketches of the Gates by Christo (here called an environmental artist!). Some don't consider Damien Hirst an artist. Whatever he is, his "Dance of Death," a window cabinet with thousands of colored pills is phenomenal! The painting Waterdrops by Korean Kim Tschang-yeul is also eye-catching and inspirational.
The third building is for temporary exhibitions. When I was there, I saw a nonsense exhibit on the concept of a vacuum. (Last visit 06/2008)
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